 |
The DB28 Kind of Blue |
In honor of the color blue, a fundamental
element of its identity, De Bethune presents a monochromatic range of its
iconic models, DB28 and DB28T. Radical and magnetic, their color is created by
an artisanal and natural treatment of the metals.
Experimental Blue
De Bethune has devoted considerable research
into natural blue, because the brand considers this color to be symbolically
related to the concept of infinity and harmony. Therefore, De Bethune has
dedicated two new creations to this color, both entirely blue, and united them
under the name Kind of Blue.
At De Bethune, the color blue is imbued with
a broad and deep meaning. Evoking simultaneously water, the sky and space, the
color blue is above all envisaged as a luminous vibration by David Zanetta, curator
and co-founder, and Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and co-founder. At De
Bethune, each color corresponds to a different type of energy derived from the
colors of which it is composed.
 |
DB28T Kind of Blue |
Hand and Heat
To create its own blue, De Bethune relied
exclusively on a traditional technique, and all the parts in titanium and steel
used in Kind of Blue were treated in this manner. It consists of heating the
material to color its surface through oxidation and to modify its physical
properties in the process. Since its invention at the beginning of the 16th
century, the technique has been used by watchmakers to give a new luster to
watch parts without altering their finishings. It also provides protection
against corrosion. The synonym of watchmaking excellence, it requires a
preliminary fine polishing, followed by a heating phase, normally by flame, to
create a natural and long-lasting protective film, at the same time as it
increases the hardness of the piece. Steel and iron were the only materials
treated in this manner until De Bethune began its own experiments with
titanium. Finalized in 2006, the technique is now applied to the purest form of
this material, grade 5 titanium. Entirely done by hand, this extremely
demanding treatment involves the development of a whole new repertory of steps,
because titanium has proven to be a very arduous material to remodel. To give
it its definitive lustre, the artisans at De Bethune have to demonstrate
exceptional tenacity with each piece they work on.
Range of Colors
The thermal treatment for Kind of Blue is
applied not only to the elements of the case, but also to most of the parts of
the movement. Thus, each part is studied individually, as the process has to be
adapted according to its form and its mass. This preliminary phase is essential
to ensure a uniform range of tones in the finished product. However, the human
touch and the different typologies of the materials result in very subtle
variations. These nuances are essential for De Bethune, because they create a
visual resonance that affects the appearance of the finished piece. Actually,
the definitive color comes from the sum of all these variations and it is
expressed by a kind of overall vibration.
 |
The balance wheel is made of silicon edged with white gold |
DB28 Kind of Blue
An iconic De Bethune model, the DB28 presents
a case made of polished grade 5 titanium, mounted on two floating lugs to
ensure superior wearing comfort. On the inside, the mechanical caliber with
manual winding is fully visible and integrates several fundamental technical
inventions. The patented spherical moon-phase is positioned at 6 o’clock. Made
of steel and palladium, it offers precision that varies by only one lunar day
every 122 years. At the heart of the watch, the high-performance escapement
developed by De Bethune presents a silicon annular balance, encircled by a
white gold ring and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve that is
exclusive to De Bethune. It is protected by a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing
system. Power is accumulated and distributed through two self-regulating
barrels, also developed by De Bethune. An indicator needle positioned between 2
and 3 o’clock indicates the level of torque that has been built up. The power
reserve indicator can be read on the back of the plate, which is decorated with
special concentric graining. All the finishes are done by hand with a motion
work bridge in polished titanium, bridges with “Côtes De Bethune” decoration
and rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets. The hours are indicated by
skeleton hands on arrow pointers made of polished steel.
 |
The high-frequency tourbillon is the lightest in the world. |
DB28T Kind of Blue
The DB28T, a technical development of the
DB28, adopts the same case in polished titanium held by double floating lugs
for maximum comfort. Its mechanical caliber with hand winding is equipped with
a high frequency, ultra fast tourbillon, signed De Bethune. The lightest in the
world with its minuscule 0.20 grams for 63 parts, it beats at one-tenth of a
second and makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds for superior chronometry.
Its silicon balance wheel, just as its escape wheel, is encircled with a white
gold ring. A self-regulating twin barrel developed in-house ensures constant
torque in the movement. Entirely visible, the movement presents a curved delta
motion work bridge in polished titanium decorated with applied microsphere
stars in white gold.
Decorated by hand, the parts present various
types of high watchmaking finishes, with rose-work grinding on the barrel
ratchets and on the back, a plate with “De Bethune” concentric graining. The
hours are marked by arrow pointers in pink gold, and as an added touch of
luxury, indicated by skeleton hands also fashioned in pink gold.
At once supreme and delicate, the Kind of
Blue DB28 and DB28T emit a singular radiance from the very material from which
they are made. They truly advocate in favor of a color that casts a magical
spell.
DB28 Kind of Blue
Technical specifications
Reference: DB28BTiBN /S
Vintage: Production limited to 10 pieces in
2016
Functions: Hours, minutes, spherical
moon-phase at 6 o’clock. Power reserve on case back, Performance indicator
between 2 and 3 o’clock
Movement: DB2115
Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for
winding, and setting the time
Using a corrector for the spherical
moon-phase
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a
self-regulating twin barrel, a De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Technical features: Silicon annular balance
encircled by a white gold ring, De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal
curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indicator with precision
of one lunar day every 122 years, De Bethune Patent (2004)
Blued triple pare-chute shock-absorbing
system, De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand made, blued grade 5
mirror-polished titanium motion works bridge
Plate cover and bridge cover on the barrel in
grade 5 blued titanium, decorated with “Côtes De Bethune”
Barrels decorated with rose-work grinding and
blued by hand
Power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium,
hand decorated with “De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand
Steel parts beveled, polished and flame-blued
by hand
Display: Hands in mirror-polished and
flame-blued steel
Spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium
and flame-blued steel with precision of one lunar day every 122 years at 6
o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock
Dial: Hours ring in grade 5 polished and
blued titanium with pointers in pink 5N gold
Minutes ring in grade 5 satin-polished and
blued titanium
DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon
Technical specifications
Reference: DB28TBRBN / S
Vintage: Production limited to 5 pieces in
2016
Functions: Hours, minutes, 30 second indicator
through the ultra-light silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’
clock, Power reserve on case back
Movement: DB2019
Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for
winding, and setting the time
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a
self-regulating twin barrel, a De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Technical features: Silicon escape wheel
encircled with a white gold ring, De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat
terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light 30 second De Bethune Tourbillon
in silicon and titanium, De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and cover
plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished and blued by hand
Bridge cover on the barrel decorated in grade
5 mirror-polished and blued titanium, encrusted by hand with stars in white
gold
Rose-work grinding by hand on the barrels
Decoration on power reserve indicator in
grade 5 titanium “De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand
Steel parts beveled and flame-blued by hand
Display: Hand-polished hands in pink 5N gold
De Bethune 30-second ultra-light tourbillon
in silicone and titanium at 6 o’clock, De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Dial: Hours ring in grade 5 polished and
blued titanium with pointers in pink 5N gold
Minutes ring in grade 5 satin-polished and
blued titanium
No comments:
Post a Comment