De Bethune presents the DB25 World Traveller, an intelligent
watch featuring a second time zone and world time expressed with a mysterious
display. The exceptional ease of use and convenient systems for setting and
display make this timepiece a world première.
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DB25 World Traveller |
Navigation Instrument
The DB25 World Traveller is designed to become a loyal
companion for the long-distance traveller. Although the invention of multiple
time zones dates back to the 17th century, the readability and adjustment of
the functions on a wristwatch have never been so simple and intuitive. The
system is completely secure and each indication can be controlled
independently. Once again, De Bethune stands out from the pack by inventing a
timepiece that is simple in appearance but conceals a gem of technical
intelligence.
Visually, the refinement of the DB25 World Traveller lies in
the concentric arrangement of the functions. World times appear on a disc in
the center of the dial, encircled by a graduated channel in which a moving
microsphere indicates the reference time – also known as the home time. This
microsphere, a technical signature of De Bethune since their invention of the
three-dimensional moon-phase, has two halves that allow it to also indicate day
and night. One half is blue, the other pink, and they reverse positions when
they pass 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Local time is displayed on the hour circle, and the
day on the last exterior circle.
The DB25 World Traveller is equipped with the mechanical
caliber DB2547 with manual winding, the latest manufactured. The morphology,
performance and high-quality execution of the caliber illustrate the degree of
excellence and the philosophy of technical exploration that are so particular
to De Bethune. For the first time, the central delta bridge is embellished with
a “Côtes De Bethune” decoration in the center, produced using the Microlight
micrometric engraving technique developed by De Bethune. The polished plate is
hollowed out to become concave and thus intensifies the reflections of light as
a result. The regulator is equipped with a new evolution, a titanium balance
wheel with white gold inserts, developed particularly for optimal management of
temperature variations.
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The rotating microsphere displays the current
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Absolute Comfort
The DB25 World Traveller transforms the way that a second time
zone can be displayed along with a world time indicator. True to the De Bethune
approach that focuses first and foremost on the reason behind any watchmaking
function, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet have aimed to make the display
correspond ideally to the traveller's needs. They focused their research on
readability and comfort, both in wearing the watch and in manipulating its
settings.
Starting in the center, the dial indicates world time, which
is set using an almond-shaped push-piece positioned at 8 o'clock. This flexible
and precise system moves the city display disc, which is decorated with
concentric Microlight, by one-hour clockwise jumps. The first time zone, or
reference time zone, is displayed with 24-hour markers and indicated with a mysterious
display by the position of the microsphere, which appears to float weightlessly
in its channel.
Using the crown, it can be set in both directions
(clockwise/anti-clockwise). At 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., the crown pivots on itself to
present a pink gold face for daytime, or a back side in blued steel for the
night. Local time, or the second time zone, is indicated by the blued
leaf-shaped hands, whose curve matches the relief of the dial. The minutes hand
remains naturally coordinated with the reference hour, while the hours hand is
controlled by the crown pulled out to the second notch. The hours hand moves
forward and back by direct jumps of precisely one hour. The day indication is
the last circle on this display, with a design that evokes the solar system.
The day is coordinated with local time only in the clockwise direction, and
indicated by a jumping pointer that is adjusted by a corrector at 10 o’clock.
The generous 45mm diameter white gold case provides plenty
of room for this display. The champagne and silver tones also structure the
reading by sequencing the succession of the indications. The alternation of
decorations and volumes also enhances readability, for example, with the
slightly domed hours ring, which is also highlighted with a powdered effect to
intensify the luminosity of the surface.
The case stands above the wrist, like an instrument, with
open lugs attached to the case back. This frees up the middle so that it is
accessible for easy adjustment. The crown is an essential component of the DB25
World Traveller; designed to be thin but wide and slightly raised for greater
ease in handling. It moves on three notches that are distinguished from one
another by their markings.
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Exquisite finishing decorates De Bethune's
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Technical Innovation
The mechanical caliber DB2547 with manual winding in the
DB25 World Traveller is the 25th caliber designed, manufactured and assembled
in-house by De Bethune. In its own right, it is the result of more than 10
years of knowledge and inventions developed by Denis Flageollet and his team. To
achieve this new streamlined display, the movement integrates 430 parts.
Visible through a sapphire case back, the reverse side of
the movement reveals a new titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts in
the rim. The result of in-depth research and prototypes, the balance wheel has
the capacity to neutralize the effects of temperature variations through its
interaction with the balance spring, with its “De Bethune” flat terminal curve
that ensures concentric development. The aerodynamic shape was also designed to
diminish air resistance, an important source of disruption, to the greatest
extent possible. True to form, it guarantees perfect balance through all stages
from manufacture to assembly. Silicon was chosen for the escapement wheel, due
to its light weight and in order to increase the power of the caliber. As for
the regulator, it is completely maintained by a triple pare-chute
shock-absorbing system exclusive to De Bethune. The system combines a titanium
bridge that integrates two jewels that act as support columns on each side. A
leaf spring system supported by the jewels holds the system in place. The
partially visible twin barrels accumulate five days of power reserve through a
patented self-regulating power mechanism.
Other distinctive features: De Bethune finishes its
movements so that they reflect as much ambient light as possible. For this
reason, the finish on the majority of the components is mirror-polished. A
number of them, whether they are steel or titanium, are also blued, reflecting
De Bethune's signature color, as seen here on the bridge and the rim of the
balance wheel, as well as on the leaf spring of the triple shock absorber.
Rose-work grinding is reserved for the barrel ratchets. An outer ring decorated
with grained Microlight and perforated by oblong apertures provides the support
for the various indications.
DB25 World Traveller
Technical Specifications
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Second time zone, World time,
Day/night indicator, Jumping date
Movement: DB2547
Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (3 positions) for winding, GMT
and setting the time
- Secure bidirectional systems (back/forward)
- Using a flexible and comfortable push-piece for the city disc (clockwise)
- Using a corrector for the date pointer (clockwise)
Display: Hours and second time zone – blued curved
leaf-shaped hand
Minutes – blued curved leaf-shaped hand
World time – two-tone microsphere
Day/night indicator – pink (5N gold) or blue side of the
microsphere – decorative technique derived from the De
Bethune Innovation of the spherical moon-phase (2004)
Date – mirror-polished jumping pointer
Case material: White gold
Case diameter: 45mm
Case thickness: 13.7mm
Lugs: Integrated, cone-shaped
Crystal: Sapphire, with 1800 vickers anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Sapphire, with 1800 vickers anti-reflective
coating, mounted on a threaded ring
Strap: Extra-supple alligator skin
Buckle: Ardillon, in white gold
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