The serpent is one of the oldest mythological symbols
representing good and evil, wisdom, life and eternity, and it may be seen on
everything from ancient religious artifacts to the caduceus, the symbol of
modern medicine.
Bulgari began producing snake-inspired bracelets in the late
1940s, and the design immediately took hold, laying the groundwork for the
ensuing decades’ serpent-inspired watch designs.
Designs for the latest Serpenti |
In the 1960s, a variety of Tubogas-style Serpenti watches
were introduced in yellow gold, white gold or a combination, and various enamel
examples were also offered, many with diamond and other gemstone accents. Also
during this era, a specially made Serpenti adorned the wrist of Elizabeth
Taylor on the set of “Cleopatra,” further drawing attention to this
icon-in-the-making and no doubt enhancing its already-wide appeal.
These snake bracelets and watches required a high degree of
craftsmanship. Focused attention was paid to authentic detail, and certain
species of snakes inspired certain bracelet colorations. The reptiles’ names
were even subtly engraved in Italian on the tails in a touch of whimsy. Other
enamel snakes were inspired by fashion rather than nature: sunny yellow snakes
shone with red scales while white scales glittered against bright turquoise.
The gold pentagon-shaped scales were individually enameled then fired before
being painstakingly assembled with tiny screws.
Gold Tubogas, circa 1972 |
Interestingly, Bulgari partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre and
Vacheron Constantin to create movements for snake timepieces, and these Swiss
brands continued creating watches with Bulgari into the early 1970s, with most
of the watches possessing dual signatures. An octagon-shaped watchcase made by
Vacheron Constantin is seen on several Bulgari Tubogas snake watches of that
era, but by 1978, due to the opening of a manufacturing facility in Switzerland
called Bulgari Time, Write & Light, the Tubogas watch bracelets featured
Bulgari-made watches exclusively.
Bulgari-Bulgari, circa 1980 |
In the 1980s, the taste for luxury goods was on the upswing
and brand logos became the rage. Thus the Bulgari-Bulgari watch paired with a
Tubogas serpent-style bracelet became popular and in fact was so successful,
that it was continuously produced for almost thirty years. Renditions from the
1980s include yellow and white gold models, while the 1990s saw a steel version
for the first time.
In 2014, coinciding with the year of Bulgari’s 130th
anniversary, a rare Bulgari Serpenti watch from 1965 set a new world record at
Christie’s. This extraordinary piece, which surpassed the estimate of between
$300,780 and $417,750, reached a final hammer price of $1,107,038.
This rare Serpenti from 1965 set a new world auction record at Christie's. |
The Serpenti continues to reinvent itself with each passing
decade, and this year’s Baselworld debuted an entirely new design: the Serpenti
Incantata, wherein the snake wraps itself around the watch dial. Each part of
the iconic snake’s head and body was redesigned, creating a wholly new and
contemporary look. The Serpenti Incantata (“Enchanted Snake”) comes in a
variety of styles and sizes, including a Skeleton Tourbillon model with a
mechanical movement (BVL caliber 208) that perfectly marries Bulgari’s high
jewelry expertise with haute horlogerie.
The new Serpenti Incantata Skeleton Tourbillon |
The new Serpenti Spiga, which Bulgari describes as “boldly
rock ’n’ roll,” is a new iteration of the Tubogas-style Serpenti, this time
crafted in black or white high-tech ceramic. The diamond-set gold bezel and the
tip of the tail, also in gold, are elegant reminders of Bulgari’s roots in
jewelry. So, too, the new Serpenti Jewellery, which comes in combinations of
metals or with diamonds, colored mother-of-pearl, turquoise and other precious
gems. The Serpenti Five-Coil Tubogas is a dramatic take on the well-loved snake
with its curved 35mm steel case, 18-karat pink gold bezel set with diamonds, a
black opaline dial, and multiple coils in 18-karat pink gold and steel.
The new Serpenti Spiga in black ceramic |
The future no doubt holds new and exciting takes on the
famous Bulgari Serpenti, proving that good design, abiding symbolism and a
willingness to evolve are winning ingredients for timeless appeal.
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