Cemento |
By Jonathan Bues
Giuliano Mazzuoli cements his reputation for daring design
with his latest creation.
As a child growing up in Central Italy, Giuliano Mazzuoli
was imbued with a love for motorsport. He was enamored with cars from a young
age, which eventually inspired him to race them. When, later in life, Mazzuoli
entered the design world, his point of reference for industrial design was one
firmly entrenched in the world of everyday objects. For him, this naturally
meant objects from the automotive world.
The 45mm case is made of polished cement. |
Although Giuliano Mazzuoli is not a watchmaker per se, his
penchant for horological design has become more deeply refined over the years.
He has other successful projects such as fine-writing instruments and
stationery, but it’s his watches that have landed Mazzuoli his greatest
successes.
Unconventional Inspiration
Mazzuoli has been ahead of the curve time and again in his
willingness to embrace unusual materials for his watch cases. He was among the
first of the smaller independent brands to make a carbon fiber watch. He has
even gone to Italy’s famed Carrara marble mines in pursuit of the ultimate
Italianate watchcase. And his penchant for finding
inspiration from everyday life took an unusual twist when he stopped to observe some maintenance being done in his garden.
inspiration from everyday life took an unusual twist when he stopped to observe some maintenance being done in his garden.
Contagiri |
Mazzuoli immediately fell in love with the gray-green color of
freshly poured cement, and wanted to make a cement watch that would keep this
color without transitioning to a lighter gray. The key to locking in this hue
came from a complex brushing and polishing process that is applied to each
Italian-made Cemento case. The straps likewise hail from the workshops of
Italian experts in the Tuscany region.
As with most of Mazzuoli’s watches, the Cemento is large
(45mm in diameter and 13.5mm in height) and features a Swiss-made automatic
movement with incabloc anti-shock system.
In Gear
On the more complicated end of the spectrum is Mazzuoli’s
Contagiri. This timepiece’s central feature,
which evokes a sports car’s rev counter, is in fact a retrograde hour display
that is set by a lever incorporated in the caseband in conjunction with a
rotating bezel. At the end of each 12-hour period, the central hand jumps from
12 to 1 in a manner recalling the steady rise and rapid fall of a rev counter
during acceleration and subsequent gear changes.
Trasmissione Meccanica Chronograph |
One of the more fluid expressions of modern watch design in the
Mazzuoli line is the Trasmissione Meccanica Chronograph, a timepiece whose case
is designed after the stacked, swirling gearing found in a car’s transmission.
The lug-less case design, which is typical in the Mazzuoli
range, incorporates an off-center winding and setting crown at the 2 o’clock
position and chronograph pushers unusually placed on the left-hand side of the
case. Yet, as anyone who has actually attempted to operate a chronograph while
driving can attest, this orientation has the advantage of ease of use for
right-handers.
Whatever he is creating, Giuliano Mazzuoli brings a
philosophy of design to his projects that is uniquely his own.
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