Thursday, June 9, 2016

Into the Deep Blue with the Calibre de Cartier Diver

Calibre de Cartier Diver in steel and rose gold.

Two years after launching the first Calibre de Cartier Diver, the Parisian maison returns with a new, blue version of the rugged design.

An unmistakably masculine watch for both everyday wear and extreme conditions, it meets the challenge of combining Cartier style with the technical requirements of ISO 6425. This norm, which controls the “Diver’s Watch” label, lays down eight criteria of reliability and imposes a series of extremely rigorous tests.

Immersion Criteria
A unidirectional bezel, water-resistant to 300 meters, hands and dive-time indicator in Super-LumiNova: the Calibre de Cartier Diver meets all the criteria for a diver’s watch as laid down in the international standard, entitling it to carry the engraving “Diver’s watch 300 m” on the caseback.

Unidirectional Rotating Bezel
To prevent any accidental rotation or alteration of the dive-time indication, the bezel turns in one direction only. It has been designed with 120 notches (40 teeth and 3 points) to enable adjustment to a half-minute, with a clear sound signal during its rotation. For greater visibility, the markers signaling each five minute period are clearly indicated.

The Diver in the dark.

Luminous Display
The Calibre de Cartier Diver can be clearly read deep below the surface due to the Super-LumiNova applied to its dive-time indicators, hour and minute hands, pre-selection device and small seconds counter.

Water-Resistant to 300 Meters
When underwater, diving watches can be subjected to very high pressures and extreme conditions (salt water, thermal shock, etc.). For protection, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is fitted with a thick crystal, a screw back, oversized seals and a screw-in crown that ensure water-resistance to 300 meters. The watch has demonstrated its resistance to salt water after immersion in a solution of sodium chloride (30g/l) at 18°C - 25°C for 24 hours. Furthermore, after spending 50 hours at a depth of 30cm at 18°C - 25°C, it continues to function perfectly under water.

The blue ceramic bezel rotates.

Reducing The Case Thickness
The manufacture’s watchmakers are always careful to maintain a balance of dimensions. They have produced an authentic diver’s watch, without sacrificing everyday comfort on the wrist, in a balanced case measuring just 11mm in thickness. It is a brilliant combination of a diving watch and beautiful Cartier watchmaking, with a striking contrast of satin and polished finishes, a turning blue ceramic bezel and bordered with fluting that recalls the interior of the bezel of the Calibre de Cartier watch. This is a clear sign of its pedigree, just like the oversized, luminescent XII numeral.

In steel, rose gold or a combination of both metals on a blue rubber strap, the Calibre de Cartier Diver shows all the characteristics of the very first Calibre de Cartier model created in 2010. It has the same powerful shape, robust case and manufacture movement 1904 MC.

The Movement 1904 MC
Introduced in 2010, the 1904 MC was the first self-winding movement to be developed and assembled by Cartier’s watchmakers. Its highly symbolic name recalls the pioneering spirit of Louis Cartier who, in 1904, created one of the very first modern wristwatches for his friend, the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. More than a century later, the 1904 MC movement is writing a new chapter in Cartier watchmaking.

The Diver's automatic movement
is produced in-house by Cartier.

This 11 ½ ligne caliber has been designed to maintain perfect chronometric stability thanks to a double barrel that guarantees excellent constancy of the mainspring torque over a long period. Fitted with a fine regulating system and a stop-second mechanism, it has been conceived to enable the manufacture to perfectly adjust its chronometry, guaranteeing that it runs with great precision. The rotor of the 1904 MC caliber is mounted on a central ceramic ball-bearing that gives it excellent shock-resistance and ensures its durability. An even more inventive development is a ratchet system of bidirectional winding that makes the watch quicker and more comfortable to wind.

Fine Watchmaking Finishes
The decorators’ endless quest for beauty produces the most impressive results in fine watchmaking movements. The care lavished on the finishes of the caliber 1904 MC demonstrates Cartier’s extremely high standards when creating a movement to power a watch intended for professional use and everyday wear: the Calibre de Cartier Diver.

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