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The BR 01 Burning Skull |
In 2009, Bell & Ross made a lasting impression by
breaking with traditional watchmaking codes for its very first BR 01 Skull. A
remarkable version was unveiled in 2015, in the form of the BR 01 Skull Bronze.
And the story of the now famous Bell & Ross skull has taken yet another
twist with the revelation of an extraordinary new face. This brand new version
is a celebration of military symbolism and the art of tattooing.
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Bell & Ross will only make 500 pieces. |
Each of the BR 01 Skull collections pays its own unique
tribute to the legendary parachutists of the Second World War. Emerging from
the skies at dawn on 6th June 1944, the troops of the 82nd and 101st American
airborne divisions played a vital role in the Normandy landings. On their
jumpsuits, these elite fighters proudly wore an insignia bearing a skull and
the words: “Death from Above,” both to intimidate their opponents and to ward
off ill fortune.
Today, the legendary “Jolly Rogers” still figures on
military equipment, such as uniforms, emblems and airplanes as a decorative
element that is used as a talisman or a rebel symbol. And what could be more
symbolic than a tattoo, particularly one that depicts an image as striking as
the fires of hell? So was born the BR 01 Burning Skull.
Faithful to the spirit of the 1944 parachutists and their
emblem, which resembled the pirate flags of the past, the BR 01 Burning Skull
displays the skull and crossbones, perfectly placed within the lines of the
iconic square case of the Bell & Ross brand. Sporting the color of steel
with a black background serving as a showcase, the relief dial
features hour and minute hands that reveal other traditional motifs from the
military world: the dagger and the sword. The matte appearance of the metal and
the muted reflections from the alligator strap enhance the watch’s adventurous
and combative image.
Despite its provocative aspect, the skull is not the only
unusual decoration on the watch. The entire case surrounding the dial is fully
engraved and decorated in the style of a tattoo. Evoking some of the most
striking designs used to decorate the skin, the watch is emblazoned with sparks
flying in all directions, on both the front and back, with an array of details
covering every surface and recess.
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Black lacquer is added by hand on the caseback. |
Turn the watch over, and even the visible inscriptions on
the caseback seem to be taken from a real tattoo, with the curved letters
appearing to follow the contours of an arm. Its bold, edgy graphics recall the
mythical fires of hell, and include numerous motifs symbolizing destiny and
mortality: a heart, a rose, a scythe and an hourglass, lurking within the
decoration.
To create this effect, each line engraved into the steel is filled
manually, using a stylus, with a black ink/varnish, just like a tattoo artist
decorating the skin. During the process, the piece is fired several times in an
oven to fix the lacquer. It is a long and painstaking job, and it takes the
engraver/lacquerer several hours to finish each case. Once these stages are
complete, the black lacquer underscores the watch’s graphic identity through
the interplay of balance and contrast between light and dark tones.
The steady hand, expertise, experience and artistic mastery required
for this work on the steel of the BR 01 Burning Skull closely match the skills
of the tattoo artist…
The realism of the skull in the center of the “tattoo” is reinforced
by the design of the dial on two levels, which brings a depth to the visual
effect. The skull is created from stamped metal, a process traditionally used
for producing coins and medals, and which creates a true relief. The black SuperLuminova
covering the dial face further accentuates the skull, intensifying its defiant
stare.
The military symbolism and exceptional craftsmanship of this
watch make it truly one of a kind. The bellicose character and exquisite workmanship
of the BR 01 Burning Skull add a fiery aura to the talismanic spirit of the
original Skull model. The watch is available in a limited edition of 500
pieces, and will delight collectors and fans of idiosyncratic timepieces.
BR 01 Burning Skull
Technical Specifications
Movement: Automatic winding caliber BR-CAL.302
Water-resistance: 100 meters
Case: 46mm diameter. Engraved, microblasted steel. Hand-filled
with black lacquer.
Straps: brown alligator and ultra-resistant black synthetic fabric
Dial: Black SuperLuminova-coated. Stamped metal skull.
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